I'd made tentative plans to climb with Steve Tree today, but when John, Jo and Shane all expressed a desire at the wall yesterday to go out then I offered to take them. Well, Jo doesn't need looking after! Didn't think either Fall Bay or Pavilland would be suitable for two beginners. Pavilland because it is a little bit serious and Fall Bay because apart from the Upper Tier, I've never climbed there. Not wishing to impose on Steve or Stealth, (he was going too) we went for the easy option.

Collected American John from Mount Pleasant early. The plan was to do a couple of routes at the Quarry while the tide retreated and then head on down to Tor Bay where we would meet up with Shane and Jo. John could do his firts lead, etc. Shane could do some more leading.

Put John on the 6A+. He made short work of it. He was setting up the lower off when a rather large and round oldish bloke in a Wales rugby shirt came bumbling down the track toward us.

"Come down", said Mr. Bumbly.

"Morning!", I replied bright and cheerfully.

No answer.

"Morning!", I said again. Louder this time.

"Climbing is strictly forbidden here, there are signs at the entrance".

"Yeah, I know", I said.

Bumbly looked puzzled for a moment.I think he was wary of a confrontation and here was me being quite friendly and cooperative. Thought that that would be the best tactic.

Just then, Shane arrived and he looked rather confused.

"Come on, come down!", he said again. I didn't want to rush John.

"He's just cleaning the route", I said.

"I've taken out all the pitons, at least all the ones I could reach in my machine".

"Actually", I replied, " they are not pitons but they are a mixture of expansion bolts and glued in staples".#

He looked blankly at me.

"Well, I took all the pitons out!", he re-iterated.

This was my opportunity to give him a mini-lecture on fixed protection. I did so with some of the special "enthusiasm" I reserve for my Set 4 "Special Needs" classes.

It certainly had the desired effect on Bumbly. He calmed down completely. As far as he was concerned, this bloke wasn't going to take a swing at him or shout at him, in fact he wanted to educate him!

Ha! Gullible!!

We packed up slowly all the while chatting to him. He even reciprocated the teaching and gave us a little lesson on the geology of the place. Actually, it was interesting.

As we parted at the top of the decline, I said, "I expect to see you again then!"

"You'd better not, I might not be so nice next time."

Who's he kidding? Tsk!

Well, a change of tactics is required here.

	(1) Don't park in the usual place.  I guess Bumbly has made a
	mental note of my car.  Park either at the Beaufort or up near
	The Joiners.

	(2) If he comes again, be friendly and cooperative, lest he
	get into the habit of phoning the police first.  Not sure if
	the police actually have powers to do anything unless we cause
	criminal damage.

	(3) Keep an eye out for Bumbly when walking into the place.
	If he sees rucksacks and ropes in the vicinity he'll know
	exactly what's going on.

	(4) When going to the Joiners after climbing elsewhere, park
	at the Quarry parking place.  This will confuse the hell out
	of him.

We were wrong about the tides. We could have gone straight to Tor. Jo arrived and we spent the rest of the day messing around on Severes and showing Shane and John the ropes.

Joiners afterwards.