Now that I've retired my Anasazis how could I really test my new Scarpas? Why, by going to the quarry of course! ::YAWN::

Met Shane down there at 2 O'Clock. Led the two easy routes (5+,6A+) and was very surprised to find the shoes to be much more postive on small edges than the Anasazis.

On the 6B+ and 6CI positively yomped up them painlessly.

Here's my theory. The Anasazis offer no support at all. They are not designed to. They are built for sensitivity and feel. They are primarily for climbers operating at the higer grades where most of the climber's weight is on the arms and NOT on the feet. In fact if you climb on them at the quarry, you'll inevitably end up standing around on small edges and will eventually have to give up in agony as your toes will start to hurt like hell. I found that I could stand around on edges quite comfortably and securely. True, I didn't have the feel through to the rock like the Anasazis and I didn't get that feeling of being able to power down with the toes on tiny edges, but to be honest, I either need to lose about 4 stone or develop some seriously strong toes if I'm going to do that for more than a couple of times on a climb.

They were slippery on smears though. I think that is because they are still new and un-roughed up.

Anyway, Shane did much better today. Retired to the Joiners afterwards.