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Tim Hoddy
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Saturday, January 4, 2014
Let's do a comparison. I found a picture of a modern climber kitted
out on the same route as the picture below. I found the picture on
the WWW - I have no idea who it is.
| Gear | Modern Climber | Tim and Dick - 1977 |
| Rope | Lightweight super-dynamic 9.8mm | 11mm "stretchy" |
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Protection
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- Stoppers on wire
- "hexcentric" hexes on dyneema
- lightwight dyneema slings
- cams
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- Camp hexes on self-tied cord
- Self-tied slings in heavyweight "Super-Blue"
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| Trousers | Nice breathable trousers in quick drying fabric | Woolen Breeches |
| Helmet | Super-lightwight ventilated helmet | No helmet |
| Shoes | Sticky rubber and especially shaped for steep
climbs | Essentially baseball boots with thich smooth rubber
soles. Very painful! |
| Hydration | Special hydration bladder with
tube | Perhaps an old plastic orange squash bottle kept in a rucsack |
| Rainproof | Breathable hard-shell | Non-breathable
p.u. coated nylon "cagoule". (Dick would often just wear his
woollen cardigan!) |
Chalk | Yes | No |
| Belaying | Aluminium friction device | Bare hands.
Falls are painful for the belayer too |
| Karabiners | mix of wiregate and solid gate carabiners 3
sigma rated at around 25kN | Mix of Clog and Camp
carabiners. 3 Sigma rated? What's that? |
| Quickdraws | Lots of them | None |
So, are they any safer nowadays? Probably not... at least not on such
an easy route. With all of that gear, the bloke in the picture thinks he's climbing
something huge!
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