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Tim Hoddy
   
Gear - Then and Now

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Let's do a comparison. I found a picture of a modern climber kitted out on the same route as the picture below. I found the picture on the WWW - I have no idea who it is.

GearModern ClimberTim and Dick - 1977
RopeLightweight super-dynamic 9.8mm11mm "stretchy"
Protection
  • Stoppers on wire
  • "hexcentric" hexes on dyneema
  • lightwight dyneema slings
  • cams
  • Camp hexes on self-tied cord
  • Self-tied slings in heavyweight "Super-Blue"
TrousersNice breathable trousers in quick drying fabricWoolen Breeches
HelmetSuper-lightwight ventilated helmetNo helmet
ShoesSticky rubber and especially shaped for steep climbsEssentially baseball boots with thich smooth rubber soles. Very painful!
HydrationSpecial hydration bladder with tubePerhaps an old plastic orange squash bottle kept in a rucsack
RainproofBreathable hard-shellNon-breathable p.u. coated nylon "cagoule". (Dick would often just wear his woollen cardigan!)
ChalkYesNo
BelayingAluminium friction deviceBare hands. Falls are painful for the belayer too
Karabinersmix of wiregate and solid gate carabiners 3 sigma rated at around 25kNMix of Clog and Camp carabiners. 3 Sigma rated? What's that?
QuickdrawsLots of themNone

So, are they any safer nowadays? Probably not... at least not on such an easy route. With all of that gear, the bloke in the picture thinks he's climbing something huge!

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