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Gear - Then and Now

Friday, January 4, 2013

Let's do a comparison. I found a picture of a modern climber kitted out on the same route as the picture below. I found the picture on the WWW - I have no idea who it is.

GearModern ClimberTim and Dick - 1977
RopeLightweight super-dynamic 9.8mm11mm "stretchy"
Protection
  • Stoppers on wire
  • "hexcentric" hexes on dyneema
  • lightwight dyneema slings
  • cams
  • Camp hexes on self-tied cord
  • Self-tied slings in heavyweight "Super-Blue"
  • TrousersNice breathable trousers in quick drying fabricWoolen Breeches
    HelmetSuper-lightwight ventilated helmetNo helmet
    ShoesSticky rubber and especially shaped for steep climbsEssentially baseball boots with thich smooth rubber soles. Very painful!
    HydrationSpecial hydration bladder with tubePerhaps an old plastic orange squash bottle kept in a rucsack
    RainproofBreathable hard-shellNon-breathable p.u. coated nylon "cagoule". (Dick would often just wear his woollen cardigan!)
    BelayingAluminium friction deviceBare hands. Falls are painful for the belayer too
    Karabinersmix of wiregate and solid gate carabiners 3 sigma rated at around 25kNMix of Clog and Camp carabiners. 3 Sigma rated? What's that?
    QuickdrawsLots of themNone

    So, are they any safer nowadays? Probably not... at least not on such an easy route. With all of that gear, the bloke in the picture thinks he's climbing something huge!

    January 2013
    Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
    1 2 3 4 5
    6 7 8 9 10 11 12
    13 14 15 16 17 18 19
    20 21 22 23 24 25 26
    27 28 29 30 31
    Dec  Feb

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